DIY SOS - Dan's Big Build - RSR 250 v3 Sump

bagmouss
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DIY SOS - Dan's Big Build - RSR 250 v3 Sump Dec 3, 2019 14:29:58 GMT reefloat likes this

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Post by bagmouss on Dec 3, 2019 14:29:58 GMT

Hi guys, i'm looking for some help & advice please.

I have a new RedSea Reefer 250 v3 that I’m just about to set up and I’m trying to get my head around best sump design.

The main mental blocks i'm having are:

Refugium or not?
Do you guys use refugiums and if so are they using the box standard or externally built (some people have used the ATO reservoir on the 250 but that seems even smaller)

I would like to try the Trition method so I know i need a refugium for the base method. The RSR 250 v3 comes with a separated refugium in the sump. Would this be sufficient or do you suggest an external refugium?

I have a spare AI Prime HD from my old RSR MAX Nano, would that be overkill as a Refug light for Cheato growth? or would a Kessil H80 or a cheaper alternative do?

Current list of my equipment:

Deltec Skimmer,

Nyos Torq Reactor,

Clarisea SK-3000

Ecotech Vectra S2 pump

2x Schego Heaters

2x Ecotech Radion XR15w

2x Ai Nero 5 Powerheads

Koemer X4 doser

Reefloat ATU-Pro3-30 (thanks Gordon)

Reefloat AWC (thanks Gordon)

Marine Pure Blocks

Triton Method Core 7

Sump Mods
At the moment, with the equipment listed above I already own I’m thinking doing the following Mods. What are peoples thoughts?

1. Replace Stock RSR valve with Spears Gate valve mod
2. Build a Manifold with compact ball valves for adding additional equipment mod
3. Removal of RSR filter sock compartment mod for installing the Clarisea SK-3000 in it place

Is a manifold a good idea and would spears compact ball valves be sufficient but still replace the main valve with a spears gate valve?

Would the Clarisea sk3000 be ok to replace both filter socks and be first line of filtration?

To enable Copepod growth/sustainability would the refugium have to be the last stage before the return pump?

I really appreciate if you have read this far (sorry for all the questions) and i'm open to any of your kind words of advice, help or suggestions to finally move into the building phase. 🙂

Many thanks
Dan

Last Edit: Dec 3, 2019 14:32:27 GMT by bagmouss

Colin
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DIY SOS - Dan's Big Build - RSR 250 v3 Sump Dec 3, 2019 15:22:52 GMT reefloat and bagmouss like this

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Post by Colin on Dec 3, 2019 15:22:52 GMT

Hi and Welcome to SBUK

A fuge is always worth having if you can fit one in so go for it. The Prime HD is the wrong spectrum for growing Chaeto, AI actually make a freshwater version but to be honest I would get an outdoor 6500k (cool white) LED floodlight from eBay, say 20W for a small fuge. That will grow chaeto very well for next to nothing

Questions

1 the Red Sea gate valve, I hear the stock one can be a little problematic so yes it's worth replacing with a good quality ball valve

2 A manifold is a good idea plumed into your return from your pump, just get a slightly larger return pump and turn it down a little when you're not using the outlets from the manifold. I believe it's best on the return because then your reactors etc will be after your fuge so theoretically there will be more nutrients for the Chaeto to take out rather than your expensive media

3 Filter socks, I'd say keep them and keep them clean, get a few spares and change every day or two. Look at it as a trap for detritus and if you can manually remove it, I think you'd be better off spending your money on Siporax, Maxspect media or similar than on a Clarisea sk3000, I must admit it looks like a handy gadget.

Sump order is always a personal thing, I'd say Filter socks - fuge - Skimmer - reactors and return. You could also split the flow between the fuge and the returns so they get a half flow each and the fuge outlet would always miss the skimmer. I'm not sure how easy that would be on the V3 Reefer sump as I haven't seen one

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bagmouss
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DIY SOS - Dan's Big Build - RSR 250 v3 Sump Dec 3, 2019 16:59:12 GMT

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Post by bagmouss on Dec 3, 2019 16:59:12 GMT

Hi Colin, Many thanks for the warm welcome and your reply.

I will look into getting a different light for the fuge, many thanks for the advice.

I do already own the Clarisea SK3000 so i think i might try the mod to fit it in and see how it does. I could always silicone back in the filter socks attachment if no good.

Have you or anyone had experience of the Triton method or what supplements do people use instead.

Colin
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DIY SOS - Dan's Big Build - RSR 250 v3 Sump Dec 3, 2019 17:55:09 GMT bagmouss likes this

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Post by Colin on Dec 3, 2019 17:55:09 GMT

In that case go for it, if nothing else it will save changing and washing filter socks

No I've never tried the Triton method so I can't offer any advice or opinion sorry. In the past I've used Miracle mud with some success, the KZ method and vodka dosing.

I like to keep things simple on a 350 I would use Balling lite and regular water changes to keep trace elements somewhere near. I do recommend the Triton ICP tests 3 or 4 times a year just to double check and keep an eye on the stuff you don't test for. I think the Triton method can get a little pricey if you follow it exactly when regular water changes can do the same thing

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dougm43
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DIY SOS - Dan's Big Build - RSR 250 v3 Sump Dec 3, 2019 19:53:59 GMT reefloat and bagmouss like this

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Post by dougm43 on Dec 3, 2019 19:53:59 GMT

my last tank I had a refugium with miracle mud and cheato and it was lifting with Copepods and tiny little shrimp, this time however I only have miracle mud, and apart from an explosion of Copepods early on I have never seen one in either the tank or the sump so have no idea if I have any or not, the tank certainly doesn’t seem any better or worse for it but I am seriously considering setting up a refugium again and if I was setting up a new tank I would definitely have one from the get go,, it just makes sense to me that that extra bio diversity will help for a healthier tank.
I tried with the triton method a few years ago but not having any really demanding corals I felt as though it wasn’t really necessary and it did seem quite expensive,that said as Colin pointed out the ICP test was very useful and informative. Have you looked at the Aquaforest range of reef care products, I’ve seen some stunning tanks using that system and I think probably works out a fair bit cheaper..
Can’t comment on the Clarisea as I’ve never used one but I can’t see any disadvantages, just like a self cleaning filter sock. Only better.
Doug.

Last Edit: Dec 3, 2019 20:01:09 GMT by dougm43

Colin
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DIY SOS - Dan's Big Build - RSR 250 v3 Sump Dec 10, 2019 15:25:18 GMT

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Post by Colin on Dec 10, 2019 15:25:18 GMT

Dec 3, 2019 17:55:09 GMT Colin said:

In that case go for it, if nothing else it will save changing and washing filter socks

No I've never tried the Triton method so I can't offer any advice or opinion sorry. In the past I've used Miracle mud with some success, the KZ method and vodka dosing.

I like to keep things simple on a 350 I would use Balling lite and regular water changes to keep trace elements somewhere near. I do recommend the Triton ICP tests 3 or 4 times a year just to double check and keep an eye on the stuff you don't test for. I think the Triton method can get a little pricey if you follow it exactly when regular water changes can do the same thing

Get yourself a tank thread going Dan, I'm dead interested to see this coming along

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bagmouss Founding Member Last day at work Posts: 25	DIY SOS - Dan's Big Build - RSR 250 v3 Sump Dec 10, 2019 16:40:48 GMT jimfitz and Colin like this Quote Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Post by bagmouss on Dec 10, 2019 16:40:48 GMT I will do Colin, Only just got Cabinet built so will start thread once the actual fun of sump build starts.

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DIY SOS - Dan's Big Build - RSR 250 v3 Sump

Post by bagmouss on Dec 3, 2019 14:29:58 GMT

Post by Colin on Dec 3, 2019 15:22:52 GMT

Post by bagmouss on Dec 3, 2019 16:59:12 GMT

Post by Colin on Dec 3, 2019 17:55:09 GMT

Post by dougm43 on Dec 3, 2019 19:53:59 GMT

Post by Colin on Dec 10, 2019 15:25:18 GMT

Post by bagmouss on Dec 10, 2019 16:40:48 GMT